favorite itinerary: things to do in guadalupe mountains national park

kiddo hiking to smith spring in guadalupe mountains national park

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guadalupe mountains national park was a big surprise for me. one of the least visited national parks, i found guadalupe mountains to be quite beautiful with very interesting geologic history.

guadalupe mountains national park is another of those parks that i wish we had the opportunity to spend more time in. there’s a lot to see and some really big hikes in guadalupe mountains that would be a thrill to complete - including climbing guadalupe peak, the highest natural point in the entire state of texas!

alas, the weather was not in our favor. with elevations between 3,000 and 8,000+ feet, there can be a lot of weather variation in the park. high winds are typical through the fall and winter and, ultimately, that’s what bested us. if you’re looking for the best time of year to visit, the weather in guadalupe mountains is more mild in spring and summer.

land of the mescalero apache

the land presently known as guadalupe mountains national park is the indigenous homeland of the mescalero apache. (the mescalero apache also inhabited the land that became white sands national park and carlsbad caverns national park.)

“traditionally, when a mescalero apache man married, he moved in with his wife’s family. while mescalero society did have gender roles, there was close collaboration between men and women. men helped women during agave roasts. women accompanied men on buffalo hunts.

women traditionally gathered and prepared food in mescalero apache society. to keep her family fed, a mescalero woman needed a deep understanding of the resources and cycles of her land. this knowledge of local plants meant that women sometimes held roles as healers. many of the great shamans in mescalero stories are women.”

what to bring to guadalupe mountains national park

layers: one of the biggest climate factors in the park is elevation. there are big shifts in the temperature throughout the park, based on where you are and what the elevation is. if you’re exploring multiple areas or doing one of the multiple hikes that climb in elevation, it’s best to be prepared with layers.

hiking poles & sturdy boots: it’s pretty rocky on the trails and areas can get muddy and slick, so a good idea to have both good hiking boots and a set of hiking poles. we’ve used these hiking poles in all conditions. kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

sun protection: regardless of time of year or elevation, sun is abundant in guadalupe mountains.

• sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spf 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

• water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

• other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a park gift shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here.

a note about camping in guadalupe mountains national park

guadalupe mountains has three developed campgrounds open year round which are open to tent or vehicle camping, including the frijole horse corral campground for horse campers.

the pine springs campground is located near the visitor center and has basic amenities including pit toilets and utility sinks. the dog canyon campground is much more secluded and quite a distance from the visitor center. it does have restrooms as well as 4 designated spots for rv campers. there are no showers in the park.

guadalupe mountains national park itinerary

due to weather - extremely high winds - our trip to guadalupe mountains national park was cut short. be prepared for shifting weather conditions no matter the time of year. we ended up postponing for three days until we couldn’t any longer. it meant we missed out on some of the big hikes we had planned, but we did enjoy a sunny (albeit it briskly chilly!) morning in the park. below is our itinerary for one day in guadalupe mountains national park.

i’ve also included a few other things i wish we had time for. something to consider if you have two days in guadalupe mountains national park or more!

one day in guadalupe mountains national park

visitor center: make sure to start your day at one of the park’s two visitor centers to check the latest conditions. again, conditions can shift quickly and vary throughout the park, so you’ll want to latest information on the trails you’re planning to visit.

hike devil’s hall: this strenuous, 4.2 mile hike takes visitors through a natural staircase between steep canyon walls. there is an incredible amount of scrambling, as well as a lot of loose rocks and debris. make sure you have plenty of time, water and snacks to tackle this incredible hike!

visit frijole ranch: after your big trek, head over to frijole ranch for a picnic lunch. while there, check out the frijole ranch history museum, which gives a great overview of the human history of the park. even if the museum is closed, you can walk the grounds and peek into the one-room school house to imagine what life was like here 150 years ago.

hike smith and manzanita springs: just beyond the frijole ranch history museum is the trailhead for the smith spring loop that also takes you to manzanita spring. the 2.3 mile hike has beautiful scenery and gives a good sense for the ecology of the park. the springs are quite different and both are fascinating and lovely in their own ways. i would consider this trail a *do not miss for this park!

if you have more time in guadalupe mountains national park

here’s a list of places we wish we could have visited if we had more time in the park.

• hike guadalupe peak - this day trek up the to the highest natural point in texas is a bucket list item for us!

• visit one of the many viewpoints - there’s a lot to see in this park, including several peaks that each have their own viewpoints. of note - guadalupe mountains have their own el capitan! learn more about the viewpoint here.

• take a scenic drive to dog canyon - this part of the park is more remote and the one-way drive through the chihuahuan desert takes 2 hours. you could start your morning with a hike in pine springs and then spend the afternoon exploring dog canyon.

• visit the salt basin dunes - this area of the park is unfrequented, but gives the opportunity to climb white gypsum sand dunes with incredible views of both the guadalupe mountains and el capitan. if you have an extra day to explore, this would make a memorable adventure!

i hope this guide to guadalupe mountains national park inspires you to go out wild and visit this hidden gem tucked away in the far west corner of texas. there are so many surprises to uncover!

favorite itinerary: visiting white sands national park

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kiddo hiking the dunes at white sands national park

white sands national park is exactly what all the bloggers and gram-ers say it is: like being on another planet. it is truly an unreal, bucket-list destination. the sand gets its color from gymsum, which washes into the basin from surrounding mountains. when the water evaporates, brittle selenite crystals are formed. the fragile crystals are easily ground down, creating the sand. while visiting white sands is a bit off the beaten path, it’s also a great park to do in a day or less and easy to visit if you’re passing through on a southwest roadtrip.

we spent about a half-day at white sands and probably could have done just about everything on our list in even less time. though, you could definitely spend a full day at white sands just wandering the dunes and taking it all in. or try camping at white sands national park to get the full experience! be sure to add this destination to your new mexico road trip itinerary!

land of the mescalero apache

the land presently known as white sands national park is the ancestral homeland of the mescalero apache. “the Mescalero people were nomadic hunters and gathers and roamed the southwest… the people were given the name "Mescalero" because they gathered and ate the mescal plant. It was the staple of their diets and could sustain them in good times and bad.”

a bit about the mescalero apache puberty rite ceremony:

"one of the most traditional and sacred ceremonies practiced by the Mescalero Apache is the puberty rite ceremony. it is a four-day “Rite of Passage,” a ceremony that marks the transition of an individual from one stage of life to another, from girlhood to womanhood. a young girl celebrates her rite of passage with family-prepared feasts, dancing, blessings and rituals established hundreds of years ago…

it is said that this ceremony was given to the Apache people by White Painted Woman. when her people, the Apache, were hard pressed by evil monsters, White Painted Woman reared a son to destroy those creatures and to make the earth inhabitable for mankind. she is the model of heroic and virtuous womanhood. for the duration of the rite, the young girl dresses and acts like White Painted Woman. the girl is never referred to by her name, but is known as White Painted Woman.

beginning at dawn on the first day, the young girl is guided and advised by a medicine woman through four days of formal observances and events… the girl is dressed in the buckskin costume that she will wear for the following eight days… by the end of the fourth day, every possible experience… has been mentioned in songs and prayers for the long life and good fortune for the young maiden and for the Apache people.

for four more days after the completion of the ceremony, the young maiden must continue to wear her ceremonial buckskins... at the end of this period the medicine woman washes her hair and body with suds of the yucca root. then she changes into her ordinary clothing, equipped for her new stage in life and her role in the community.”

gypsum dunes of white sands national park

what to bring to white sands national park

like any desert, exploring white sands national park calls for hydration and sun protection, no matter the season. a few things we alway bring for any desert hike:

sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spf 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here. also note, sunglasses are an absolute must at this park! the white sand reflects the sun and can really irritate your eyes!

good shoes: this is one of the few times i would recommend hiking sandals over boots, depending on the time of year you’re visiting white sands national park. otherwise, you’re gonna get a whole lot of sand in your shoes!i have these and kiddo wears these. because it was colder during our visit (and i hate getting my feet dusty/dirty), we still wore our boots and did just fun - though we had to dump out the sand at least half a dozen times during our visit! kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

kiddo with sled for dunes sledding at white sands national park

a note about camping in white sands national park

there are no campgrounds in white sands national park, but there is the option to partake in backcountry camping in the dune field. the stars over the dunes create a memorable experience. permits are required and limited in availability.

white sands itinerary

unless you’re camping in white sands, you really can do this park in a day. we spent about 5 hours in the park and a good amount of that was just wandering around the dunes. it’s definitely possible to have a full experience in this park in half a day or less. however, there are some off the beaten path experiences even within the park, so if you have the time, enjoy 2 days in white sands national park! see some ideas for additional activities below.

kiddo hiking the backcountry loop in white sands national park

one day in white sands national park

visitor center: be sure to stop at the visitor center prior to entering as it’s the only place you can access water in the park. also check out the exhibits about the park’s geology. the white sands are truly unique and the process by which it forms is equally fascinating!

hike the dune life nature trail: kick off your adventure with this short interpretive hike through the dunes. it will give you a great initial sense for the dune experience while also bringing in the opportunity to see the wildlife that inhabits the park.

hike the interdune boardwalk: if you’re not up for hiking the dunes, this is a great accessible option just a little further on from the dune life nature trail. the boardwalk eliminates the need to trudge through sand, but still provides the opportunity to get out into the dune field. there is also a ton of great interpretive information along the way. we did both (along with the playa trail!), and enjoyed them equally.

go dunes sledding: you can’t miss this memorable experience! we first went dunes sledding at great sand dunes national park and it was the highlight of the entire summer for kiddo. so, we knew we had to do it again when the opportunity to visit white sands national park arose. visitors are essentially given free reign to pick explore any spot on the dune field and turn it into a sledding hill. you can spend as long as like and have the energy to keep trudging back up the dunes! note - i highly recommend bringing your own sleds, if that’s an option for you. the sleds available in the gift shop are quite pricey and it wasn’t an option to rent while we were there.

hike the backcountry loop trail: after sledding we took a break for lunch to refuel. there are several picnic areas throughout the dune field, but we chose to pull off in a quiet spot and enjoy the view. from there, we hit the backcountry loop trail! there are diverse options for hiking in white sands national park, from boardwalks, to those with more flora and fauna, to those with endless, pristine dunes. this hike in white sands is of the endless, pristine dunes variety. while the parking area of this hike can get quite busy, you’ll find that the crowds quickly fall away as you proceed on the trail. the trail is well marked, but you also have the option to wander as far as you like. we saw virtually no one else and were completely immersed in the dunes. this was my favorite experience at white sands national park, though be advised it’s over two miles of trudging through sand, up and and down the dunes. it’s an energy zapper, for sure!

kiddo walking across the top of a dune at white sands national park

if you have more time in white sands national park

• join the ranger guided sunset stroll - we had planned to do this but had to drive back to camp to get a spot! we’re still bummed we missed it.

• hike the strenuous alkali flat trail - this is the longest and most strenuous hike in the dune field

• score tickets to the lake lucero tour - this tour only happens a few times a year. we had tickets to go in fall one year and sadly had to bail on that trip. we still hope to go back and do this. if you’re able, try to plan around the rare dates that this tour occurs.

i sincerely hope this guide to white sands national park encourages you to go out wild and explore this otherworldly place. i’ve experienced nothing else like it, despite visiting plenty of other sand dunes. it’s a really special place and a great option for a family vacation. enjoy!

favorite itinerary: visiting chiricahua national monument

kiddo points up at the rhyolite formations in chiricahua national monument

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ever wonder what would happen if bryce canyon and pinnacles national parks got together and had a baby? for the very select few who said “yes!”, i have the answer for you! it’s chiricahua national monument, and it’s in southeastern arizona.

chiricahua national monument is an extraordinary surprise in far eastern arizona. with otherworldly rhyolite formations, exciting grottoes, and plenty of trails, it’s a great addition to any arizona road trip or southwest vacation!

land of the chiricahua apache

the land presently known as chiricahua national monument is the indigenous homeland of the chiricahua apache. it’s important to note that when they were given the name “apache” by the spanish, it was not a name the indigenous people took on. instead, they used variations of “nde”, meaning “the people”, to refer to themselves. since then, the tribe has claimed the name and are outwardly identified as the sovereign nation of the chiricahua apache. (it’s also worth noting that not all indigenous peoples who were assigned “apache” find the term acceptable.) a little about the chiricahua apache’s origin beliefs:

 “the chief deity of the Chiricahua Apache was Ussen, whose will governed all. Ussen existed before the creation of the universe. He created the first Mother with no parents who sang four times, a sacred number to the Chiricahua Apache. Her singing began the creation of the universe. Ussen also created the first Boy and Sun God who shook hands. the sweat from this handshake created the Earth. the Earth was small at first, so they kicked it around and it gained mass like a snowball rolling down a hill, getting larger and larger. Ussen also created Tarantula, who increased the Earth’s size even more by pulling on it with four cords of web which he spun. Ussen then created the first people and fire and then he left. Ussen continues to watch events unfold from afar and still intercedes from time to time.”

what to bring to chiricahua national monument

kiddo hikes up sugarloaf mountain in chiricahua national monument

chiricahua national monument sits at higher elevations than the surrounding areas in arizona. because of this, it tends to be cooler and layers are recommended for much of the year. while it can get warmer in summer, chiricahua national monument does experience all four seasons. we visited in february and it was in the 20s. the roads were clear, but there was still snow and ice on some of the trails.

base layers: wool base layers will keep you comfortable while exploring this park. i have this top and these bottoms from smartwool, which are best for cooler temps. there’s also this lighter weight top and these lighter weight bottoms which are great for year round! (yes, these are pricey. i will say i absolutely love them and they work exactly as they should, along with being super comfy. i highly recommend them!)

microspikes: if you’re visiting in winter, you’ll definitely want to bring microspikes. while we saw some snow and ice on most trails, one of the trails we did was extremely icy and we would have fared a lot better with microspikes. these look good for adults and here’s a great option for kids.

hiking poles: though we didn’t have microspikes, we did have our hiking poles on hand, and they were an absolute lifesaver. i highly recommend these for any season as most of the trails are fairly rocky with some rough terrain.

good shoes: i also highly recommend sturdy boots. kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these. in warmer weather you could likely get away with some good hiking sandals in this park. i have these and kiddo wears these.

a note about camping in chiricahua national monument

there is an option to go camping in chiricahua national monument. there is just one campground in chiricahua that is largely for tents or vans, though some spaces could fit smaller rvs. there are no hookups or dump stations. restrooms and potable water are available. it’s very near to the chiricahua national monument visitor center.

because of the very low temperatures, we opted not to camp in chiricahua national monument. however, the campground was still completely full when we visited!

kiddo hiking a trail in chiricahua national monument

chiricahua national monument itinerary

there’s a fair amount to explore in chiricahua national monument, and 2 days in chiricahua or 3 days in chiricahua national monument would probably be ideal. we only had one day and because it was winter there weren’t any program options to take part in. so, we went hiking - a lot! if this much hiking isn’t for you, check out the “if you have more time” section below for what to do in chiricahua national monument.

one day in chiricahua national monument

visitor center: start out the visitor center, especially if you are visiting in winter. they will have information about the latest trail conditions and can help you decide which trails are best for your group on the given day.

hike massai point nature trail: drive the bonita canyon scenic drive to the upper elevations of the park at massai point. here you’ll find a nice nature trail that will bring all the wonder and excitement about exploring the park’s rhyolite pinnacles further. note - these are several interesting pullouts on the way up. i recommend stopping at these on the way down because they are on the opposite side of the road and have extremely limited parking and visibility.

hike sugarloaf mountain trail: make your way back down bonita canyon drive to the turnoff for echo canyon and sugarloaf mountain. after turning you’ll quickly come to another turn for echo mountain. keep heading up - you’re going to hike the highest point in the park: sugarloaf mountain! this trail brings sweeping views the whole way and takes you to an old fire lookout. once you’re back down, take a nice break and enjoy a picnic lunch before heading back down the road to the echo canyon loop trailhead.

hike echo canyon loop: this is an absolutely fabulous trail that takes you right down into the pinnacles. while sugarloaf mountain has steeper elevation gain, this hike was definitely the toughest of the three - we’d rate it moderate. we hiked it clockwise, which kept the best part for near the end: the grottoes! if you don’t have much time, you should start counterclockwise, hit the grottoes and then turn back. they are absolutely worth seeing if you’re able! note - this loop is made up of a series of trails by differing names. be sure to bring your map. the intersections are well marked, but it can be confusing because you’re technically transitioning to a new trail at each one.

checkout the viewpoints on the bonita canyon scenic drive: on your way back down bonita canyon drive, take the opportunity to stop at the pullouts along the way. our favorite was the organ pipe formation, which was a fun coincidence since we had just visited organ pipe cactus national monument (itinerary here)!

kiddo enters the grottoes at chiricahua national monument

if you have more time in chiricahua national monument

one of the things we regret is not having more time for wildlife viewing, which is much more likely in the lowest elevations of the park. here’s a list of places we wish we could have visited if we had more time in the park.

• visit faraway ranch historic district

• view the wildlife at bonita creek

• hike the natural bridge trail

• hike the silver spur meadow trail

i sincerely hope this guide to chiricahua national monument encourages you to go out wild and explore this fascinating place. i found myself oohing and aahing a whole lot more than i expected and hope you experience the same!

favorite itinerary: visiting organ pipe cactus national monument

kiddo hiking in organ pipe cactus national monument

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my friends, i have a new favorite national park service site: organ pipe cactus national monument. we had some major snafus while visiting this extraordinary biosphere preserve and yet i am still completely taken by its magic. have you ever heard of this far southwestern arizona national monument? i cannot rave enough about this gem. organ pipe cactus national monument is truly a national treasure!

organ pipe cactus national monument is in the sonoran desert, which benefits from two rainy seasons. and though it’s still desert, it’s called the “green desert” for good reason. this park is absolutely teaming with a diversity of flora. it honestly stunned me. seriously, friends, i teared up multiple times on our first hike because it is so dang beautiful!

the organ pipe cactus is rarely found in the united states - organ pipe cactus national monument is really the place to see them. this monument is also an international biosphere preserve, and there are other species that can only be found in this part of the country, including the endangered sonoran pronghorn. there are so many special moments to be found here. for example, when the wind blows, the organ pipe cacti needles hum. they not only look like organ pipes, but they actually make music! i cannot recommend enough that you add organ pipe cactus national monument to your southwest trip itinerary!

organ pipe cactus ribs at organ pipe cactus national monument

land of the tohono o’odham

 the land presently known as organ pipe cactus national monument is the indigenous homeland of the tohono o’odham. the tohono o’odham nation continues to reside and thrive in the area. while we learned so many fascinating facts about how the tohono o’odham use mesquite and tepary beans, as well as other desert resources, I was naturally taken by the uses of cactus. here’s a favorite thing we learned:

 “early spring was called ko’oak macat (the painful moon) by the tohono o’odham becaues of scarce food supplies. during this season, they turned to cacti for food and pit-roasted thousands of calcium-rich cholla flower buds. today’s o’odham people still pit-roast or boil the cholla buds, which taste like asparagus tips.”

what to bring to organ pipe cactus national monument

like any desert, exploring organ pipe cactus national monument calls for hydration and sun protection, no matter the season. a few things we alway bring for any desert hike:

sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spa 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here.

good shoes: the desert is fully of prickly things. i highly recommend sturdy boots (and not hiking sandals). kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

sunset on ajo mountain drive

a note about camping in organ pipe cactus national monument

i highly recommend camping in organ pipe cactus national monument. the monument is right on the us/mexico border and there are very few services in the surrounding area outside the park. organ pipe cactus national monument has two campgrounds - the larger twin peaks campground, as well as the tiny, more primitive alamo campground. we camped at twin peaks and really loved it. it’s just one mile from the organ pipe cactus national monument visitor center, is accessible to several trails, and is just steps from the amphitheater where ranger programs are held.

i recommend 2-3 nights in organ pipe cactus national monument so you can see the top sites and take in the best spots. here’s our itinerary for two days in organ pipe cactus national monument.

2 days in organ pipe cactus national monument

you certainly could spend one day in organ pipe cactus national monument and see a lot. if you only have a day, use the day 1 itinerary as your complete guide to organ pipe cactus national monument.

day 1: one day in organ pipe cactus national monument

kiddo hiking arch canyon trail

visitor center: start at the kris eggle visitor center. be sure to check out the garden in back to get a close up look at a saguaro boot! note, this park has a desert ranger program, rather than a junior ranger program, but the swearing in and badge are just like you’d expect from other parks. not gonna lie, it was fun to partake in activities more geared for adults, and i got a badge, too!

ajo mountain drive: make your way just across the road from the visitor center to ajo mountain drive. this 21 mile winding, scenic road has 18 stops with an interpretive map. also be sure to grab the desert ranger guide to find the cristates, a crest-like anomaly in cacti, throughout this section of the park!

hike arch canyon: just past stop 10 on your drive you’ll come to the arch canyon trailhead parking. at 1.2 miles and marked “easy to moderate” you might be tempted to think this is a quick stop. i would consider this hike to be on the more strenuous side as a significant portion of it is quite steeps and requires scrambling. also note, there are a lot of cairns on this trail that may seem helpful but ended up leading us hours off trail. we were in a very near dangerous situation with no more water and the sun going down before we finally found our way back to the trail. be sure to download a map in advance as there is no reception in this area! and please, never build cairns. they are ecologically damaging and not always helpful to fellow hikers. all that said, if you stick to the trail, it’s a lovely adventure that’s mostly shaded in the afternoon.

hike estes canyon: between stops 11 and 12 is a picnic area with restrooms, as well as the trailhead for estes canyon and bull pasture. enjoy a picnic lunch to refuel between your hikes. the estes canyon loop is about 3 miles. if you’re feeling up for it, you can add on the bull pasture spur for an additional mile that’s quite strenuous. from there, finish up the rest of the scenic drive, including my personal favorite part, the cholla forest!

evening ranger program: after you’ve gotten some rest and dinner, head over to the amphitheater where the park hosts a ranger program most evenings. the program we attended was about how the ecosystem has changes over millions of years. we learned a ton, including the fact that this section of desert as we know it is younger than the humans who have occupied it!

day 2: two days in organ pipe cactus national monument

kiddo hiking the desert view trail

puerto blanco drive: this 41 mile drive circles the puerto blanco mountains and offers the opportunity to visits multiple springs and an oasis. there are also several hiking opportunities, but be mindful that this drive is much longer and your time on trails may be limited.

hike dripping springs mine: though the spring is a nice area to take in some cool air, the real gem of this hike is the extraordinary views! this is another trail that requires a map as it’s not well marked and the cairns can be misleading. after your hike continue on to golden bell mine or bonita well for a picnic lunch.

visit quitobaquito spring: after lunch, continue your drive and make a stop at this pond that was once part of a prehistoric trade route. there are several endemic species here, as well the sonoyta mud turtle, which can only be found here in the united states. finish up the drive from there!

hike desert view trail: after you refuel and get some rest, i highly recommend taking a golden hour or sunset hike on the desert view trail. accessed from the group sites at twin peaks campground, this was our favorite hike in the park. it’s a really lovely place to take in the scenery, learn about the various plants and just enjoy a gentle farewell to this special place.

i sincerely hope this guide to organ pipe cactus national monument encourages you to visit go out wild and explore this special place. it exceeded all my expectations and i had very high hopes going in!

favorite itinerary: visiting channel islands national park

kiddo hikes to potato harbor on santa cruz island

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visiting channel islands national park was like a dream come true! of the nine california national parks, i definitely assumed visiting channel islands would come last. alas, life has its way of changing plans, and we were able to make a trip to channel islands national park the first stop on our unexpected coast to coast road trip.

indigenous land

the channel islands are the indigenous homeland of the Chumash. Julie Tumamait-Stenslie, an island descendant, shares a Chumash creation story:

"Saxipaka, once upon a time, here on this beautiful island that we call Limuw, meaning "in the sea", we know it today as santa cruz island. Mother Earth, Hutash, was out here. and as she had created many things here on the island, she thought something was missing. so she went to a very special plant, and she gathered some magic seeds. and she threw the seeds out into the earth, here on the island. and pretty soon, up from the ground, up from this beautiful earth, grew these beautiful people. she gave them many gifts here, and showed them how to live happily on this island. well, her husband, Suyapo'osh, the sky snake, today we know him as the milky way, he wanted to give the people a gift too, so he gave the gift of fire by shooting a bolt of lightning to the ground. well, the fires burned hot, and they kept warm with these fires, and they cooked their food. the villages started to grow and grow and be populated with more and more children. pretty soon, with all the noise from these children, Hutash was annoyed. and she decided that it was time for these people to move on, and to move to another place. so she said to herself, I've got to think of some place to put these people, a different place where they can spread out and be very happy. well the next morning she gathered all the people up to a very high, high mountain, Siwot, or as we know it today, mount diablo. and as she told the people to look, and as they looked up into the sky across the ocean, they saw a beautiful, beautiful rainbow, Wishtoyo, and she told them that image was a rainbow bridge. and the rainbow bridge was going to take them to a new land that was very large, and they could fill that with people. well, as the people started to climb over the bridge and cross over, many became very dizzy and very frightened, because there was a mist and a fog below - they couldn't even see the ocean. well, as they started falling off, crying to Hutash for help, she took pity, and she changed them and transformed them into dolphins, and that is what we call our brothers and sisters today of the ocean, Alolk'oy. those people who crossed over on the bridge went to a place called Ts'ismuhu, "where it steams out." today we know that place as carpinteria. and the people came off that rainbow bridge and spread out into all these beautiful places on our mainland. and that is all." 

two dolphins jumping out of the water in the santa barbara channel

channel islands national park is made up of five islands. the largest, easiest to get to, and thus most frequently visited is santa cruz island. because we visited during winter, santa cruz island was our only option due to limited ferry runs. ferries to the island are hosted exclusively by island packers. the winter ferry left the ventura dock at 9am, arriving on santa cruz island by 10:30am. the only ferry back to ventura departed santa cruz island at 3:30pm. so, we had a total of five hours on the island.

what to bring to channel islands national park

importantly, there are no concessions on the island - no food options or gift shop. you’ll want to bring all the food you’ll need for the day with you. i packed lunch and some extra snacks in my daypack here. there is water available at the campgrounds, but many of the hikes get quite a distance from the campgrounds, so be sure you fill up with all the water you’ll need before hitting the trails. i brought a 32 oz. water bottle and kiddo had his camelpak here. if you end up forgetting anything or want some extras, you can purchase some items on board the ferry before you disembark.

a note: kayaking channel islands

we would have loved to do kayaking at channel islands national park! because of the ferry schedule, and availability of kayak tours, this is the only activity we would have had time for if we signed up. we really wanted to do some channel islands hikes and have the opportunity to explore on land, so we opted out. having been on the island, i’m glad for this decision, but if we had an extra day i would absolutely do a kayaking tour of channel islands!

a note: camping at channel islands national park

there is one primitive campground on each of the five channel islands! all have pit toilets and picnic tables but only santa cruz and santa rosa islands have potable water. all campgrounds are located away from the boat launch, so you must essentially backpack in with your gear. we checked out the santa cruz island campground up close (and the anacapa campground from afar), and i am very eager to return to camp someday!

and with that, here’s our itinerary for one day on santa cruz island.

standing in front of the channel islands national park sign at the boat launch

one day at channel islands national park: santa cruz island itinery

channel islands visitor center

it’s important to note that the channel islands visitor center is located on the mainland, near the ferry dock in ventura. there are ranger outposts at each of the five islands, but none are places where anything can be purchased - or even where there is a ranger posted. because you need to check in at the ferry before the visitor center opens and then return right around when it closes, it’s best if you can swing by the channel islands visitor center the day prior to your island excursion. we lucked out and our santa cruz island ferry got back just after 4:30pm and were able to hustle over to the visitor center (it’s down the road from the dock). we were able to explore the channel islands visitor center a bit and make purchases just before closing. however, because the ferry stops for animal sightings (yay!), your ride could last up to two hours and you could miss open hours altogether.

island packers ferry ride to channel islands

view from the channel islands ferry

board the morning ferry to santa cruz island! since we visited in winter, there was only one ferry to any of the the islands the entire day - and it was to santa cruz. during busier seasons there will likely be more options. i’d absolutely recommend taking the earliest ferry possible, though.

the ride to santa cruz island is about an hour, but if you’re lucky it will take longer because the ferry stops for animal sightings. we were fortunate to have a couple grey whale sightings. our ride to santa cruz island took about 75 minutes.

note: if you get sea sick (i do!), sit outside at the back of the boat. i am very prone to motion sickness, and i did great sitting back here and not moving. you’re also closest to the bathrooms, should the need arise.

hiking channel islands: interpretive hike to cavern point

cavern point trail on santa cruz island

after we disembarked, we took the obligatory photos at the national park sign (there are actually two on island! keep reading to discover where the second is). we had a few minutes to use the restroom and collect ourselves before a guided interpretive hike with a channel islands naturalist. our guide, bart, has been visiting the islands for 15 years and was able to share some of the significant changes (good ones!) he’s witnessed over that time.

the interpretive hiking trail was the cavern point loop. during our leisurely (though uphill!) walk we learned about many of the over 150 channel islands endemic species, as well as the ranching history of santa cruz island. we hiked with the group to cavern point and then split off to do another hike on our own.

best hikes channel islands: potato harbor at santa cruz island

potato harbor at santa cruz island

we ate our sandwiches while making our way from cavern point to the potato harbor trail on santa cruz island. potato harbor is a five mile hike that takes you along the coastline, through stunning grasslands to an overlook above a beautiful cove. we were pretty enchanted with the whole hike. it’s relatively flat and brings near-constant sweeping views. we saw lots of evidence of the endemic island fox along the way, as well as many of the island’s endemic plant species. we took a snack break at the end point and took in all the beautiful views before heading back toward the boat launch. we’d definitely rate this as one of the best hikes on santa cruz island and one of the best hikes of channel islands, overall!

santa cruz island visitor center

we had a bit of time left after our hikes, so we went to explore the on-island visitor center. again, this visitor center isn’t the same as the typical national park visitor center with souvenirs, books, a ranger desk, etc. there was no ranger inside, at all, and nothing to purchase. it is more of a museum that highlights the chumash, the indigenous people of the islands, the ranching history, and the conservation efforts of various species. we especially loved learning about the chumash and the island fox.

santa cruz island beach play

finally, we headed to the beach to play a bit on shore. there’s actually another channel islands national park sign right on the beach! we saw lots of birds, a sea urchin, and a few playful sea lions! it was the perfect way to spend our last minutes at channel islands natural park.

channel islands ferry back to mainland

it’s time to depart santa cruz island! there was only one ferry to the island and one ferry back. our ride back to mainland was at 3:30pm. if you miss the boat, you have no option but to stay overnight. from what was repeated multiple times, this has happened before. however, they did have a list of expected passengers and waited until everyone on the list was on board. our return ferry was faster as we didn’t have any animal sightings (other than the silly sea lions while we were boarding). it ended up taking just about an hour to get back.

since we had enough time, we went straight to the channel islands visitor center in ventura after disembarking! also, for those doing the junior ranger program - we got our book from island packers in the morning and our channel islands naturalist had been deputized to give badges. so, on our ferry ride back he reviewed kiddo’s book, swore him in and presented his pin.

it was a long but thrilling day at channel islands national park! but, we had one more day to explore the area, so we went whale watching!

channel islands day 2: island packers whale watching

two dolphins in santa barbara channel

since we opted out of kayaking the channel islands, we decided to spend another day doing a whale watching tour. one of the benefits of visiting in winter is you can catch the grey whale migration! we used island packers again and did a half day excursion that took us out to anacapa island and back. we had seen grey whales the day prior, but on our tour we actually saw humpback whales! the crew said they hadn’t seen humpbacks a long time and we saw quite a few, so it was a big day! we also saw hundreds and hundreds of dolphins. they absolutely love surrounding the boat, so we got some pretty up close interaction with them which was a thrill! we really enjoyed our tour and highly recommend it!

important tip: be sure to bring sunscreen! even on a winter day, the water reflects the sun quite strongly. this is our favorite sunscreen that we bring on all our adventures. we love the mousse for easy application, but you can also get the lotion or the spray.

visiting channel islands national park was such an incredible adventure. we are so grateful we were able to make it happen and are hoping to return soon to try out camping on channel islands.

i hope this itinerary for one day at channel islands national park’s santa cruz island helps you plan your own adventure. let me know if you’ve visited and what else you’d add to this list! have a great time and go out wild at channel islands national park!

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favorite itinerary: 2 days in saguaro national park; 1 day in saguaro national park

kiddo hikes a trail in saguaro national park

we all know i love a desert park and saguaro national park did not disappoint! this park is unusual in that it has two different sides that are completely separated by the city of tucson, az - though they’re a much shorter drive apart than the two sides of pinnacles national park!

both sides of the park have scenic drives that provide lots of options for exploration and enjoyment. the tucson mountain district, or west saguaro, is the most popular because it has a higher density of saguaros. the rincon mountain district, or east saguaro, on the other hand, is more mountainous - but still boasts plenty saguaros! both have a variety of longer hikes (over 5 miles) and shorter hikes (under 2 miles), but limited options for those medium distance hikes between 2 and 5 miles.

view of west saguaro national park with mountains in the distance

the land presently known as saguaro national park has been the homeland of indigenous peoples since time immemorial. tribal nations who have inhabited this area include Zuni, Hopi, Yaqui, Akimel O'odham, Tahono O’odham, and others.

the Tahono O’odham Nation shares: “on countless occasions, the U.S. border patrol has detained and deported members of the Tohono O’odham Nation who were simply traveling through their own traditional lands, practicing migratory traditions essential to their religion, economy and culture. similarly, on many occasions U.S. customs have prevented Tohono O’odham from transporting raw materials and goods essential for their spirituality, economy and traditional culture. border officials are also reported to have confiscated cultural and religious items, such as feathers of common birds, pine leaves or sweet grass.

the division of O’odham lands has resulted in an artificial division of O’odham society. O’odham bands are now broken up into 4 federally recognized tribes: the Tohono O’odham Nation, the Gila River Indian Community, the Ak-Chin Indian Community and the Salt River (Pima Maricopa) Indian community. each band is now politically and geographically distinct and separate.”

view from cactus wren trail in west saguaro national park

you could easily visit both sides over a weekend in saguaro national park. we like to take our time in parks, where possible, so we did two days in saguaro national park, one (shorter) day for each side. however, because the parks aren’t too far apart (a 1 hour drive), you could certainly do one day in saguaro national park and get to both sides. here’s what we recommend seeing and doing on your visit!

day 1 in saguaro national park: west/tucson mountain district

1. hike the scenic/packrat/passey loop: this 1.7 mile hike is off-the-beaten path disconnected (by road) to the rest of west saguaro. however, we found it to be the perfect intro to the park as a low-key loop full of diverse desert flora - including saguaros, of course! you can also shorten or lengthen this hike by taking different variations of the three trails.

kiddo hikes through the cholla on the scenic/passey/packrat loop trail

2. head into the park and stop at the red hills visitor center for maps and information. make sure to ask about the hike for health challenge. if you hike 3 miles, you get a special pin! this challenge can also be done at five other national park sites, though details vary.

3. start the bajada loop drive. this 6 mile scenic drive offers pullouts, hikes and picnic spots. be advised that the loop is unpaved and while some of the loop is two-way, not all of it is. it’s best to do the full loop counter clockwise so you don’t end up having to backtrack to get to the following stops.

4. hike the valley view and wild dog trails. this 2.6 miles out and back combo starts from the same trailhead and will likely be your first stop on the bajada loop. you could also do the 0.6 mile valley view overlook trail and then continue on the bajada loop to signal hill. you can do the 1.9 mile out and back wild dog trail from signal hill. because there are several other trails at signal hill, i recommend knocking out wild dog while doing valley view. be advised, the parking at this trailhead is extremely limited. another reason to combine trails and make this your first stop on the loop.

5. continue on the bajada loop to the signal hill picnic area. enjoy lunch with a view before setting off to view the signal hill petroglyphs. the petroglyphs, which are 0.5 mile hike from the picnic area, were created by the hohokam people between 500 and 1500 years ago. the petroglyphs are a *do not miss! from here, you have the option to connect to manville, cactus wren and encinas trails. we did the cactus wren trail, and really enjoyed the views. a great way to wrap up one day in west saguaro national park!

petroglyphs at signal hill

day 2 in saguaro national park: east/rincon mountain district

1. start off the day at rincon mountain visitor center if you need any additional maps or updated information specific to this side of the park.

2. set off on the cactus forest scenic loop. this 8 mile scenic drive is paved and has a number of scenic pullouts, in addition to trail access for hiking, biking and horseback riding.

3. though we stopped at all the pullouts along the way, our first excursion was the mica view/cholla/cactus forest loop. this 3.7 mile trail is a great option for exploring deeper into the park beyond the scenic drive. you can also shorten to 1.9 miles via the mica view/cactus forest loop. or, if you are able to do a day hike, i’d highly recommend the 10 mile cactus forest trail. it’s less traversed than the shorter trails and takes you through diverse areas of the park. any section of the cactus forest trail is a *do not miss!

landscape from the mica view trail

4. continue on the scenic drive to the desert ecology trail. this 0.3 mile accessible trail was one of our favorites! the interpretive signs are full of great information about how the flora and fauna work together to create a thriving desert ecosystem. this is a *do not miss learning opportunity!

5. continue around the loop, stopping at the various viewing pullouts and choosing one for a picnic with a view. we especially loved the javelina rocks stop, which offers the opportunity to get out and explore. just a bit further is the javelina picnic area. we stopped here to complete the junior ranger book, stretch our legs, and use the restroom. from here, wrap up the loop and return to the visitor as needed for junior ranger badges or hike for health pins. congrats on completing your visit to another beautiful national park!

one day itinerary: 1 day in saguaro national park

if you only have one day to explore saguaro national park, i’d still recommend traveling to both sides of the park. most blogs will tell you to stick to the west side but the east side was my favorite and brings a little more of an off-the-beaten-path experience. here are the top spots to include for one day in saguaro national park.

1. start at west saguaro national park

2. red hills visitor center

3. bajada loop drive (counterclockwise)

4. signal hill petroglyphs

5. drive to east saguaro national park

6. cactus forest scenic loop drive

7. mica view/cactus forest loop trail

8. desert ecology trail

9. rincon mountain visitor center, if needed

trail at the javelina rocks pullout in east saguaro national park

i hope this saguaro national park itinerary helps you plan a successful trip. may you enjoy another opportunity to go opportunity to go out wild!

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favorite itinerary: 2 days in death valley national park

death valley national park is an otherworldly fever dream! i’m a huge fan of desert ecosystems and this one just blew me away! we spent 2 full days exploring death valley and enjoyed every second of it. you can see a lot spending a weekend in death valley national park. we had actually planned on a third day, but car trouble bested us. and yet, 2 days in death valley ended up being enough! three days in death valley would also provide more flexibility to see some of the farther out sites.

the land presently called death valley is the homeland of the timbisha shoshone, who were placed in the region by creator appü. for the timbisha shoshone, death valley is tüpippüh and the land of tümpisa, or “red ochre”. miners arrived in the 1800s and the timbisha shoshone were pushed out of their homeland and “relocated” multiple times, including forced removal by the National Park Service. they have continued to live in the area and in the year 2000, 7700 acres of their homeland was restored via the timbisha shoshone homeland act. though there are hundreds of tribal members, there are currently several dozen that live year round within the park’s boundaries.

pauline esteves, a tribal elder shares, “the spirit of timbisha has received many travelers from other lands, and all of mother earth’s belongings; the home of the timbisha shoshone newe (peoples), has been used as a commodity of sorts. timbisha is not a “valley of death” – it is a valley of the red ochre. red ochre is used spiritually by the newe with its “healing power.” not of death but for life. waters from the mountains to the east and west flow underground into this valley. overflows of nearby springs once formed streams of surface water by its own course, bringing life.”

one thing i found especially surprising about death valley national park is the way visitors are invited right into the landscape. it’s nothing i’ve experienced in any other national park before (for good reasons). many places in the park don’t even have a trail and you are allowed to simply wander. these include badwater basin, devil’s golf course, nature bridge, mesquite flat sand dunes, artists palette, and more! do be sure to read all signage before deviating away from clearly designated areas.

here’s our death valley 2 day itinerary. (of note, the park experienced devastating floods in summer 2022. roads were destroyed, along with exhibits and more. be sure to check the death valley national park website before your visit to make note of closures and re-openings.)

day 1 in death valley national park

1. stop at the furnace creek visitor center for maps and information.

2. visit badwater basin: this 200 square mile salt flat is the lowest point in north america at more than 280 feet below sea level. we caught a morning ranger program here that was spectacular. note the endemic snails that live in the salty spring that bubbles up at the flats. this goes on the *do not miss list. also of note, this location is one of the most wheelchair accessible in the park. though the flats themselves are not paved, some wheelchairs would likely do fine. we did see tire tracks on the flats.

view from the salt flats at bad water basin

3. hike natural bridge: over many years, flash floods carved out this canyon and the natural bridge that spans it. there is a bumpy dirt road to a parking area, and the bridge is a 0.5 mile hike from there. there is no official path, but following the canyon will get you there. you can also explore beyond the bridge. there is a fascinating formation that appears to be a waterfall during floods. it’s reminiscent of a cathedral.

a 35 foot natural bridge spans a canyon in death valley national park

4. visit devils golf course: add this to the list of places that make death valley feel like another planet. the devils golf course is a massive “sea” of rock salt. erosion has left it pitted, sharp and rocky. it felt especially odd to just step onto the golf course, but signage allows it with warnings to be cautious about the sharp formations. they are very tricky to walk on and if you slip there’s nothing safe to grab ahold of or land on. while this is another spot that requires a drive on dirt road, it’s well worth the stop!

kiddo plays on the devils golf course salt rocks

5. explore artists drive: this is another one that goes on the *do not miss list for death valley national park! the colors are truly phenomenal - kiddo said it looked like ice cream and i have to agree. it’s a pleasant drive and there are several places to pull over. the main attraction is artists palette. visitors are able to walk directly onto the formation. there is an informal trail and lots of freedom to explore.

a view of artists palette showing the pinks, purples, greens and browns of the land

6. wander the mesquite flat sand dunes: the dune fields are a spectacular place to visit at sunrise or sunset. we went for golden hour and sunset and it didn’t disappoint! there is nowhere to rent them, but visitors are welcome to bring their own sleds or boards to use on the dunes. visitors also have the option to do a 1-mile hike out to the tallest dune (two miles round trip). there is no trail. we just wandered to our own private dune and hung out to watch the colors change. a perfect way to end your first day in death valley national park!

mesquite flat sand dunes

day 2 in death valley national park

1. hike golden canyon and gower gulch: many know this as the star wars hike. though there are several areas of the park where filming occurred, golden canyon is the most readily recognizable. we enjoyed this 4.6 mile loop - the views are spectacular! if you have time, add on the red cathedral trail (1 mile total) and/or the badlands loop (2.7 miles). we had hoped to do the badlands loop from zabriskie point but didn’t have time. you can still view the badlands from zabriskie point (below).

views of death valley hills from golden canyon

2. check out the park from above at dantes view: at 5575 feet, visitors are able to see the valley below, including bad water basin, devils gold course and more. the park recommends visiting at sunrise, sunset or dark, all of which sound magical. we visited smack in the middle of the day and it was still spectacular! be advised, the temperature is much cooler up here compared with the valley floor - likely a huge relief during scorching hot days!

view of death valley hills from atop dante’s view

3. drive through twenty mule team canyon: this 2.5 mile canyon is a short drive that feels a bit like driving through the death valley badlands. it only takes a few minutes to travel through and is between dantes view and zabriskie point. so, worth a quick drive through if you’re going to the other two anyways!

4. enjoy golden hour at zabriskie point: this was my favorite spot of all the special places we visited during our weekend in death valley national park. if you get there early enough, do the badlands hike and then stroll up zabriskie point for golden hour and sunset. it is truly spectacular! i loved it so much i planned to do it the next evening, as well, but you know… car trouble. anyway, it’s a fantastic spot and is a *do not miss! the most special way to end 2 days in death valley national park!

if you have more time

• harmony borax works: we hadn’t planned to visit this site but had some extra time and stopped by. it was so interesting! it’s a quick stop and a great place to learn about a bit of the park’s history and what ultimately led to the park’s popularity. it’s also where the evening ranger programs take place, so worth seeing in daylight, too.

• mosaic canyon: this had been on our itinerary and got cut when car trouble arose. we would have loved to see this geological wonder!

• wildrose charcoal kilns: these kilns look to be another incredible historic feature of the park. we weren’t able to get out to this area, but if you’re already passing through, seems like these kilns would be a wonderful thing to see.

• ubehebe crater: this was closed due to flooding on our visit but we hope to see it someday!

• devil’s hole/ash meadow national wildlife refuge: we stopped here on our way out of death valley, and it was well worth it! we wanted to see the devil’s hole pupfish, which are one of the rarest fish in the world. we also stopped at the point of rocks site where we saw pupfish up close and bighorn sheep from afar!

the platform path at point of rocks site in ash meadows national wildlife refuge

death valley national park is definitely one of our top national parks we’ve visited so far. i hope this 2 day itinerary is helpful and that you enjoy your visit!

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favorite itinerary: 3 california national parks in 10 days; pinnacles, yosemite, lassen volcanic national parks

manzanita lake at lassen volcanic national park

we’re fortunate in california to have nine national parks (not to mention all the other national park sites!). and they’re pretty evenly disbursed, so just about anywhere you travel in california, you’re bound to not be too far from a national park. so far we’ve visited two-thirds of the state’s parks and have a lot of favorites from each. here’s an itinerary for three california national parks in 10 days: pinnacles, yosemite and lassen volcanic national parks. with this itinerary you’ll spend two days in pinnacles national park, two days in yosemite national park and two days in lassen volcanic national park. you’ll see these recommendations are hike-heavy. that’s because that’s what we feel is one of the best ways to see these national wonders. however, be sure to do your research as each park has it’s own museums and other attractions that are worthy stops if you have time. further, the vast majority of of national park hikes are inaccessible for a variety of disabilities. if you have questions about accessible options, please reach out and i can connect you with some resources.

10-day itinerary for northern california national parks

day 1: fly into san francisco or sacramento; drive to pinnacles national park

• pinnacles national park is about 2.5 hours from san francisco and 3 hours from sacramento.

• pinnacles national park is the homeland of the amah mutsun and the chalon people. both tribes continue to have relationships with the land. for the amah mutsun, condors are significant as they escort the dead to the next world.

• there are extremely limited transportation options in the park and you should plan to drive throughout your visit.

• pinnacles national park has two sides that are about 1.5 apart by car. i recommend spending one day on each side. despite pinnacles being a small park, it would be really challenging to do both sides in a day due to the drive between.

• you should aim to see three highlights of pinnacles national park: pinnacles, talus caves, california condors. this itinerary gives you the opportunity to see all!

• i recommend staying in the campground in east pinnacles. there is no other campground on either side of the park.

• if you arrive and set up camp before dark, hike the bench trail from the campground. it’s a lovely walk and you can spot different animals coming out at dusk.

day 2: east pinnacles national park

• visit the east pinnacles book store/visitor center. it’s small, but somehow we spent more money here than any other national park - lol!

• at time of this writing bear gulch nature center is closed indefinitely. if it’s open, be sure to visit!

• hike moses spring to rim trail loop. this includes traveling through bear gulch cave! read more about the pinnacles caves and their statuses here. this loop is 2.2 miles and is a *do not miss! (all trail information is here.)

• hike condor gulch trail. the full trail is 3.4 miles out and back, but you can also hike 1 mile to the overlook and back for a less strenuous hike.

• if you have time and it’s an option for you, hike the high peaks trail. this is where we saw the most california condors, one of the rarest birds in the world. you can connect to it from the rim trail if you are already hiking the moses spring to rim trail loop. tips on spotting condors.

day 3: west pinnacles national park

• drive to west pinnacles. this drive is approximately 90 minutes from east pinnacles.

• hike the juniper canyon loop. this hike is 4.3 miles and has some steep climbs, but you’re rewarded with incredible views of the pinnacles. you could hike up to the view just before the switchbacks to tunnel trail and back down for a 2.5 mile out and back hike. seeing this view is a *do not miss!

• hike the balconies cave-cliffs loop. this loop is 2.4 miles and gives you another opportunity to explore the talus caves. some parts of this trail are not particularly well-marked and we passed multiple hikers who turned around to try the loop in the opposite direction. also be advised that balconies cave is quite different from the bear gulch cave as it is smaller, doesn’t have an established path and requires more climbing.

• return to east pinnacles campground.

juniper canyon loop in pinnacles national park

day 4: drive to yosemite national park

• make your way to yosemite national park. the drive between east pinnacles national park and the yosemite valley is about 4 hours.

• yosemite national park is the homeland of the southern sierra miwuk and paiute. the southern sierra miwuk have partnered with yosemite to restore the wahhoga village. they are also currently raising funds for oak fire relief efforts. donate here.

• if you are visiting yosemite in winter, check out this list of our favorite activities for winter in yosemite.

• there are so many wonderful places to stay in and near yosemite national park, including 13 campgrounds. we camped outside the south end of the park. we’d love to camp in the park on our next visit!

• go to the yosemite valley visitor center to get maps and a layout of the valley and beyond.

• go to tunnel view to watch the sunset. get there early for parking. we went in winter a bit before golden hour and the lot never filled. however, it’s likely much busier during peak seasons.

tunnel view at sunset in yosemite national park

day 5: yosemite national park

• hike mirror lake. i recommend the two mile out and back trail, especially if you’re planning to go to tuolumne meadow and lembert dome. we did this in winter and it was gorgeous! there is also the option to hike the 5 mile loop around the lake.

• hike cook’s meadow. this 1 mile loop offers gorgeous views of yosemite’s top sites, including yosemite falls and half dome.

• hike yosemite falls. you have a couple options. hike the lower fall trail, which is a 1 mile loop. or the columbia rock trail, which is 2 miles and offer views of the upper fall.

• drive to tuolumne meadow. this is a 90 minute drive from the valley, but if weather permits, it’s worth seeing! if you have more in you, hike lembert dome for a view of the meadows. it’s 3.4 miles and offers unique scenery.

day 6: yosemite national park

• drive to glacier point for sunrise (open to cars spring-fall; check conditions before you go as recent road improvements have led to closures).

• hike taft point and/or sentinel dome. taft point is 2.2 miles and offers some of the best views in the park. sentinel dome is right near taft point. though it’s shorter at 1.8 miles, the elevation gain is twice that of taft point. (again, check for road closures for both of these hikes.)

• hike vernal fall. though this hike is a tough climb, it’s one of yosemite’s most epic. at 3 miles, this section of the mist trail is a treat! be prepared for slippery rocks as it’s constantly wet. you also have the option to continue up the mist trail to the top of nevada fall (7.2 miles total).

• hike bridalveil fall. if you’re still up for more incredible waterfall hikes, this is a fantastic one to close out your visit to yosemite. this is actually my favorite of the yosemite attractions we visited. it’s 0.5 mile and is open year-round; we visited in winter.

yosemite national park in winter

day 7: drive to lassen volcanic national park

• the drive between yosemite valley and lassen volcanic national park is about 6.5 hours. stop in sacramento or mt. shasta for a break along the way!

• lassen volcanic national park was a seasonal resource gathering place for the yana, yahi and atsugewi peoples. the park’s first female naturalist was selena lamar, an atsugewi tribal member, who provided cultural demonstrations.

• lassen is best visited in summer. this park is prone to long seasonal road closures. we visited in early july and there was still snow and some closures!

• you’ll want to be sure to see the hydrothermal features, as well as all four volcano types that exist in the park.

• there are seven campgrounds in lassen, with options for all kinds of campers. we ended up camping outside the park because there was no availability at the time we visited. be sure to book early if you’re planning to stay in the park!

day 8: lassen volcanic national park

• start at the kohm yah-mah-nee visitor center. (if you are in an area of the park where it is closer to get to cinder cone first, start there and follow the rest of the itinerary, stopping at the visitor center last.)

• hike cinder cone. there’s no getting around the fact that cinder cone is far and out of the way of the rest of the park. however, this was by far our favorite hike in the park. this is a *do not miss! it’s so cool! you are literally hiking a volcano and have the option to go down inside the cone! the hike is 4 miles total and is strenuous. be prepared to be exposed and for a tough, slippery climb. for a shorter (though still strenuous climb), go up and back down the front of the cone. we took the longer route and the views from the back are unbeatable.

• hike bumpass hell. this is another *do not miss, featuring the park’s hydrothermal features at their best. the trail is 3 miles of gorgeous views the entire way.

• stop at sulphur works on your way out of the park. this is a quick stop that allows you to get up close and personal with mud pots, one of the park’s hydrothermal features. this view is accessible.

view of lassen peak from the top of cinder cone

day 9: lassen volcanic national park

• hike kings creek falls, a 2.3 mile loop to 30 ft. falls. if this hike is not for you, i highly recommend that you stop for a rest in kings creek meadow, which is roadside. it is absolutely picturesque and can be viewed right from your vehicle.

• visit devastated area interpretive trail. this 0.5 mile accessible trail is well worth the visit. it provides a great overview of the history and geology of the park.

• spend an afternoon at manzanita lake. this lake is gorgeous and the perfect way to end a whirlwind adventure through northern california national parks. hike the 1.7 mile loop around the lake to get all the views. then rent a kayak and explore from the water. bring a picnic along, too!

• return to camp.

bumpass hell in lassen volcanic national park

day 10: fly out of san francisco or sacramento

• drive back down to the airport and pat yourself on the back for an adventure well done!

• the drive from lassen to san francisco is about 4.5 hours and to sacramento about 3 hours.

bonus: 14-day california national parks itinerary

if you have a full two weeks you’ll have more wiggle room for travel days and can add redwood national and state parks. in this case i’d do the reverse - fly into san francisco and head to redwood national park first. then hit lassen volcanic national park, followed by yosemite national park. and finally, stop in pinnacles national park before heading back home.

hiking in redwood national park

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favorite things to do in yosemite in winter

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visiting yosemite in winter is an absolute dream. our first trip to yosemite national park was in the middle of winter and the snow and ice added to the overwhelming magic. though some roads, trails and areas of the park close during wintry months, there’s still plenty to do in yosemite in winter. here are our favorite winter activities to add to your yosemite itinerary, including winter hikes.

favorite winter hikes in yosemite

mirror lake

2 miles out and back or 5 miles around the lake

while mirror lake does take some extra effort to get to in winter (due to closure of parking areas), we found the trip to be well worth it!

tip - be sure to pack micro spikes (or these for kids) if you’re visiting mirror lake in winter. much of the path is an ice rink unless you’re treading on freshly fallen snow.

lower yosemite fall

1 mile loop

yosemite falls are an iconic must-see landmark in yosemite national park. while the upper fall trail remains open, not all of us are up for a 7 mile, difficult trek in the snow. the lower fall trail is a gentle loop with a whole lot of magic. this is a do not miss!

favorite no-hike winter activities in yosemite

tunnel view

tunnel view is a must-visit for any yosemite itinerary! while tunnel view is stunning at any time, we went to tunnel view at sunset. sunset was gorgeous, but it was blue hour at tunnel view that stole my heart.

swinging bridge

the swinging bridge picnic area (not to be confused with the wawona swinging bridge) provides a gorgeous waterfall view and a place to just relax. we spent some time strolling and playing in the snow. there’s an option to follow intersecting trails or just enjoy the picnic area. (note the swinging bridge is not actually a swinging bridge!)

sledding

snow means sledding! sledding in yosemite national park is its own special kind of fun. we went to the crane flat campground, where the snow was deep enough to cover the bathroomw and we could sled right over picnic tables without even realizing it!

i hope this list of our favorite things to do in yosemite national park in winter inspires a cold weather trip to this special place.

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