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favorite itinerary: visiting white sands national park

highlights for one day at white sands national park

this post includes affiliate links. any purchases made from affiliate links may provide me with a small amount of compensation.

child on sand dune hiking at white sands national park

kiddo hiking the dunes at white sands national park

white sands national park is exactly what all the bloggers and gram-ers say it is: like being on another planet. it is truly an unreal, bucket-list destination. the sand gets its color from gymsum, which washes into the basin from surrounding mountains. when the water evaporates, brittle selenite crystals are formed. the fragile crystals are easily ground down, creating the sand. while visiting white sands is a bit off the beaten path, it’s also a great park to do in a day or less and easy to visit if you’re passing through on a southwest roadtrip.

we spent about a half-day at white sands and probably could have done just about everything on our list in even less time. though, you could definitely spend a full day at white sands just wandering the dunes and taking it all in. or try camping at white sands national park to get the full experience! be sure to add this destination to your new mexico road trip itinerary!

land of the mescalero apache

the land presently known as white sands national park is the ancestral homeland of the mescalero apache. “the Mescalero people were nomadic hunters and gathers and roamed the southwest… the people were given the name "Mescalero" because they gathered and ate the mescal plant. It was the staple of their diets and could sustain them in good times and bad.”

a bit about the mescalero apache puberty rite ceremony:

"one of the most traditional and sacred ceremonies practiced by the Mescalero Apache is the puberty rite ceremony. it is a four-day “Rite of Passage,” a ceremony that marks the transition of an individual from one stage of life to another, from girlhood to womanhood. a young girl celebrates her rite of passage with family-prepared feasts, dancing, blessings and rituals established hundreds of years ago…

it is said that this ceremony was given to the Apache people by White Painted Woman. when her people, the Apache, were hard pressed by evil monsters, White Painted Woman reared a son to destroy those creatures and to make the earth inhabitable for mankind. she is the model of heroic and virtuous womanhood. for the duration of the rite, the young girl dresses and acts like White Painted Woman. the girl is never referred to by her name, but is known as White Painted Woman.

beginning at dawn on the first day, the young girl is guided and advised by a medicine woman through four days of formal observances and events… the girl is dressed in the buckskin costume that she will wear for the following eight days… by the end of the fourth day, every possible experience… has been mentioned in songs and prayers for the long life and good fortune for the young maiden and for the Apache people.

for four more days after the completion of the ceremony, the young maiden must continue to wear her ceremonial buckskins... at the end of this period the medicine woman washes her hair and body with suds of the yucca root. then she changes into her ordinary clothing, equipped for her new stage in life and her role in the community.”

white sand dune and blue sky

gypsum dunes of white sands national park

what to bring to white sands national park

like any desert, exploring white sands national park calls for hydration and sun protection, no matter the season. a few things we alway bring for any desert hike:

sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spf 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here. also note, sunglasses are an absolute must at this park! the white sand reflects the sun and can really irritate your eyes!

good shoes: this is one of the few times i would recommend hiking sandals over boots, depending on the time of year you’re visiting white sands national park. otherwise, you’re gonna get a whole lot of sand in your shoes!i have these and kiddo wears these. because it was colder during our visit (and i hate getting my feet dusty/dirty), we still wore our boots and did just fun - though we had to dump out the sand at least half a dozen times during our visit! kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

child with red sled hiking on white sand dune at white sands national park

kiddo with sled for dunes sledding at white sands national park

a note about camping in white sands national park

there are no campgrounds in white sands national park, but there is the option to partake in backcountry camping in the dune field. the stars over the dunes create a memorable experience. permits are required and limited in availability.

white sands itinerary

unless you’re camping in white sands, you really can do this park in a day. we spent about 5 hours in the park and a good amount of that was just wandering around the dunes. it’s definitely possible to have a full experience in this park in half a day or less. however, there are some off the beaten path experiences even within the park, so if you have the time, enjoy 2 days in white sands national park! see some ideas for additional activities below.

child wearing red on white sand dune at white sands national park

kiddo hiking the backcountry loop in white sands national park

one day in white sands national park

visitor center: be sure to stop at the visitor center prior to entering as it’s the only place you can access water in the park. also check out the exhibits about the park’s geology. the white sands are truly unique and the process by which it forms is equally fascinating!

hike the dune life nature trail: kick off your adventure with this short interpretive hike through the dunes. it will give you a great initial sense for the dune experience while also bringing in the opportunity to see the wildlife that inhabits the park.

hike the interdune boardwalk: if you’re not up for hiking the dunes, this is a great accessible option just a little further on from the dune life nature trail. the boardwalk eliminates the need to trudge through sand, but still provides the opportunity to get out into the dune field. there is also a ton of great interpretive information along the way. we did both (along with the playa trail!), and enjoyed them equally.

go dunes sledding: you can’t miss this memorable experience! we first went dunes sledding at great sand dunes national park and it was the highlight of the entire summer for kiddo. so, we knew we had to do it again when the opportunity to visit white sands national park arose. visitors are essentially given free reign to pick explore any spot on the dune field and turn it into a sledding hill. you can spend as long as like and have the energy to keep trudging back up the dunes! note - i highly recommend bringing your own sleds, if that’s an option for you. the sleds available in the gift shop are quite pricey and it wasn’t an option to rent while we were there.

hike the backcountry loop trail: after sledding we took a break for lunch to refuel. there are several picnic areas throughout the dune field, but we chose to pull off in a quiet spot and enjoy the view. from there, we hit the backcountry loop trail! there are diverse options for hiking in white sands national park, from boardwalks, to those with more flora and fauna, to those with endless, pristine dunes. this hike in white sands is of the endless, pristine dunes variety. while the parking area of this hike can get quite busy, you’ll find that the crowds quickly fall away as you proceed on the trail. the trail is well marked, but you also have the option to wander as far as you like. we saw virtually no one else and were completely immersed in the dunes. this was my favorite experience at white sands national park, though be advised it’s over two miles of trudging through sand, up and and down the dunes. it’s an energy zapper, for sure!

child walking on sand dune at white sands national park

kiddo walking across the top of a dune at white sands national park

if you have more time in white sands national park

  • join the ranger guided sunset stroll - we had planned to do this but had to drive back to camp to get a spot! we’re still bummed we missed it.

  • hike the strenuous alkali flat trail - this is the longest and most strenuous hike in the dune field

  • score tickets to the lake lucero tour - this tour only happens a few times a year. we had tickets to go in fall one year and sadly had to bail on that trip. we still hope to go back and do this. if you’re able, try to plan around the rare dates that this tour occurs.

i sincerely hope this guide to white sands national park encourages you to go out wild and explore this otherworldly place. i’ve experienced nothing else like it, despite visiting plenty of other sand dunes. it’s a really special place and a great option for a family vacation. enjoy!

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favorite itinerary: visiting organ pipe cactus national monument

best things to see at my new favorite national park service site

child hiking a canyon trail in the desert

kiddo hiking in organ pipe cactus national monument

this post includes affiliate links. any purchases made from affiliate links may provide me with a small amount of compensation. it will not affect the price or other terms of your purchase with the vendor.

my friends, i have a new favorite national park service site: organ pipe cactus national monument. we had some major snafus while visiting this extraordinary biosphere preserve and yet i am still completely taken by its magic. have you ever heard of this far southwestern arizona national monument? i cannot rave enough about this gem. organ pipe cactus national monument is truly a national treasure!

organ pipe cactus national monument is in the sonoran desert, which benefits from two rainy seasons. and though it’s still desert, it’s called the “green desert” for good reason. this park is absolutely teaming with a diversity of flora. it honestly stunned me. seriously, friends, i teared up multiple times on our first hike because it is so dang beautiful!

the organ pipe cactus is rarely found in the united states - organ pipe cactus national monument is really the place to see them. this monument is also an international biosphere preserve, and there are other species that can only be found in this part of the country, including the endangered sonoran pronghorn. there are so many special moments to be found here. for example, when the wind blows, the organ pipe cacti needles hum. they not only look like organ pipes, but they actually make music! i cannot recommend enough that you add organ pipe cactus national monument to your southwest trip itinerary!

cactus ribs surrounded by desert plants including ocotillo and organ pipe cactus

organ pipe cactus ribs at organ pipe cactus national monument

land of the tohono o’odham

 the land presently known as organ pipe cactus national monument is the indigenous homeland of the tohono o’odham. the tohono o’odham nation continues to reside and thrive in the area. while we learned so many fascinating facts about how the tohono o’odham use mesquite and tepary beans, as well as other desert resources, I was naturally taken by the uses of cactus. here’s a favorite thing we learned:

 “early spring was called ko’oak macat (the painful moon) by the tohono o’odham becaues of scarce food supplies. during this season, they turned to cacti for food and pit-roasted thousands of calcium-rich cholla flower buds. today’s o’odham people still pit-roast or boil the cholla buds, which taste like asparagus tips.”

what to bring to organ pipe cactus national monument

like any desert, exploring organ pipe cactus national monument calls for hydration and sun protection, no matter the season. a few things we alway bring for any desert hike:

sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spa 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here.

good shoes: the desert is fully of prickly things. i highly recommend sturdy boots (and not hiking sandals). kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

sunset in the desert with saguaro and mountains with an orange sunset background

sunset on ajo mountain drive

a note about camping in organ pipe cactus national monument

i highly recommend camping in organ pipe cactus national monument. the monument is right on the us/mexico border and there are very few services in the surrounding area outside the park. organ pipe cactus national monument has two campgrounds - the larger twin peaks campground, as well as the tiny, more primitive alamo campground. we camped at twin peaks and really loved it. it’s just one mile from the organ pipe cactus national monument visitor center, is accessible to several trails, and is just steps from the amphitheater where ranger programs are held.

i recommend 2-3 nights in organ pipe cactus national monument so you can see the top sites and take in the best spots. here’s our itinerary for two days in organ pipe cactus national monument.

2 days in organ pipe cactus national monument

you certainly could spend one day in organ pipe cactus national monument and see a lot. if you only have a day, use the day 1 itinerary as your complete guide to organ pipe cactus national monument.

day 1: one day in organ pipe cactus national monument

child hiking a desert trail at golden hour

kiddo hiking arch canyon trail

visitor center: start at the kris eggle visitor center. be sure to check out the garden in back to get a close up look at a saguaro boot! note, this park has a desert ranger program, rather than a junior ranger program, but the swearing in and badge are just like you’d expect from other parks. not gonna lie, it was fun to partake in activities more geared for adults, and i got a badge, too!

ajo mountain drive: make your way just across the road from the visitor center to ajo mountain drive. this 21 mile winding, scenic road has 18 stops with an interpretive map. also be sure to grab the desert ranger guide to find the cristates, a crest-like anomaly in cacti, throughout this section of the park!

hike arch canyon: just past stop 10 on your drive you’ll come to the arch canyon trailhead parking. at 1.2 miles and marked “easy to moderate” you might be tempted to think this is a quick stop. i would consider this hike to be on the more strenuous side as a significant portion of it is quite steeps and requires scrambling. also note, there are a lot of cairns on this trail that may seem helpful but ended up leading us hours off trail. we were in a very near dangerous situation with no more water and the sun going down before we finally found our way back to the trail. be sure to download a map in advance as there is no reception in this area! and please, never build cairns. they are ecologically damaging and not always helpful to fellow hikers. all that said, if you stick to the trail, it’s a lovely adventure that’s mostly shaded in the afternoon.

hike estes canyon: between stops 11 and 12 is a picnic area with restrooms, as well as the trailhead for estes canyon and bull pasture. enjoy a picnic lunch to refuel between your hikes. the estes canyon loop is about 3 miles. if you’re feeling up for it, you can add on the bull pasture spur for an additional mile that’s quite strenuous. from there, finish up the rest of the scenic drive, including my personal favorite part, the cholla forest!

evening ranger program: after you’ve gotten some rest and dinner, head over to the amphitheater where the park hosts a ranger program most evenings. the program we attended was about how the ecosystem has changes over millions of years. we learned a ton, including the fact that this section of desert as we know it is younger than the humans who have occupied it!

day 2: two days in organ pipe cactus national monument

child hiking a desert trail with different kinds of cactus

kiddo hiking the desert view trail

puerto blanco drive: this 41 mile drive circles the puerto blanco mountains and offers the opportunity to visits multiple springs and an oasis. there are also several hiking opportunities, but be mindful that this drive is much longer and your time on trails may be limited.

hike dripping springs mine: though the spring is a nice area to take in some cool air, the real gem of this hike is the extraordinary views! this is another trail that requires a map as it’s not well marked and the cairns can be misleading. after your hike continue on to golden bell mine or bonita well for a picnic lunch.

visit quitobaquito spring: after lunch, continue your drive and make a stop at this pond that was once part of a prehistoric trade route. there are several endemic species here, as well the sonoyta mud turtle, which can only be found here in the united states. finish up the drive from there!

hike desert view trail: after you refuel and get some rest, i highly recommend taking a golden hour or sunset hike on the desert view trail. accessed from the group sites at twin peaks campground, this was our favorite hike in the park. it’s a really lovely place to take in the scenery, learn about the various plants and just enjoy a gentle farewell to this special place.

i sincerely hope this guide to organ pipe cactus national monument encourages you to visit go out wild and explore this special place. it exceeded all my expectations and i had very high hopes going in!

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favorite itinerary: visiting channel islands national park

one day itinerary for santa cruz island

kiddo hikes to potato harbor on santa cruz island

this post may contain affiliate links. affiliate links do not affect your purchase price but may provide me with a small amount of compensation.

visiting channel islands national park was like a dream come true! of the nine california national parks, i definitely assumed visiting channel islands would come last. alas, life has its way of changing plans, and we were able to make a trip to channel islands national park the first stop on our unexpected coast to coast road trip.

indigenous land

the channel islands are the indigenous homeland of the Chumash. Julie Tumamait-Stenslie, an island descendant, shares a Chumash creation story:

"Saxipaka, once upon a time, here on this beautiful island that we call Limuw, meaning "in the sea", we know it today as santa cruz island. Mother Earth, Hutash, was out here. and as she had created many things here on the island, she thought something was missing. so she went to a very special plant, and she gathered some magic seeds. and she threw the seeds out into the earth, here on the island. and pretty soon, up from the ground, up from this beautiful earth, grew these beautiful people. she gave them many gifts here, and showed them how to live happily on this island. well, her husband, Suyapo'osh, the sky snake, today we know him as the milky way, he wanted to give the people a gift too, so he gave the gift of fire by shooting a bolt of lightning to the ground. well, the fires burned hot, and they kept warm with these fires, and they cooked their food. the villages started to grow and grow and be populated with more and more children. pretty soon, with all the noise from these children, Hutash was annoyed. and she decided that it was time for these people to move on, and to move to another place. so she said to herself, I've got to think of some place to put these people, a different place where they can spread out and be very happy. well the next morning she gathered all the people up to a very high, high mountain, Siwot, or as we know it today, mount diablo. and as she told the people to look, and as they looked up into the sky across the ocean, they saw a beautiful, beautiful rainbow, Wishtoyo, and she told them that image was a rainbow bridge. and the rainbow bridge was going to take them to a new land that was very large, and they could fill that with people. well, as the people started to climb over the bridge and cross over, many became very dizzy and very frightened, because there was a mist and a fog below - they couldn't even see the ocean. well, as they started falling off, crying to Hutash for help, she took pity, and she changed them and transformed them into dolphins, and that is what we call our brothers and sisters today of the ocean, Alolk'oy. those people who crossed over on the bridge went to a place called Ts'ismuhu, "where it steams out." today we know that place as carpinteria. and the people came off that rainbow bridge and spread out into all these beautiful places on our mainland. and that is all." 

two dolphins jumping out of the water in the santa barbara channel

channel islands national park is made up of five islands. the largest, easiest to get to, and thus most frequently visited is santa cruz island. because we visited during winter, santa cruz island was our only option due to limited ferry runs. ferries to the island are hosted exclusively by island packers. the winter ferry left the ventura dock at 9am, arriving on santa cruz island by 10:30am. the only ferry back to ventura departed santa cruz island at 3:30pm. so, we had a total of five hours on the island.

what to bring to channel islands national park

importantly, there are no concessions on the island - no food options or gift shop. you’ll want to bring all the food you’ll need for the day with you. i packed lunch and some extra snacks in my daypack here. there is water available at the campgrounds, but many of the hikes get quite a distance from the campgrounds, so be sure you fill up with all the water you’ll need before hitting the trails. i brought a 32 oz. water bottle and kiddo had his camelpak here. if you end up forgetting anything or want some extras, you can purchase some items on board the ferry before you disembark.

a note: kayaking channel islands

we would have loved to do kayaking at channel islands national park! because of the ferry schedule, and availability of kayak tours, this is the only activity we would have had time for if we signed up. we really wanted to do some channel islands hikes and have the opportunity to explore on land, so we opted out. having been on the island, i’m glad for this decision, but if we had an extra day i would absolutely do a kayaking tour of channel islands!

a note: camping at channel islands national park

there is one primitive campground on each of the five channel islands! all have pit toilets and picnic tables but only santa cruz and santa rosa islands have potable water. all campgrounds are located away from the boat launch, so you must essentially backpack in with your gear. we checked out the santa cruz island campground up close (and the anacapa campground from afar), and i am very eager to return to camp someday!

and with that, here’s our itinerary for one day on santa cruz island.

channel islands national park sign at the scorpion ranch boat launch of santa cruz island

standing in front of the channel islands national park sign at the boat launch

one day at channel islands national park: santa cruz island itinery

channel islands visitor center

it’s important to note that the channel islands visitor center is located on the mainland, near the ferry dock in ventura. there are ranger outposts at each of the five islands, but none are places where anything can be purchased - or even where there is a ranger posted. because you need to check in at the ferry before the visitor center opens and then return right around when it closes, it’s best if you can swing by the channel islands visitor center the day prior to your island excursion. we lucked out and our santa cruz island ferry got back just after 4:30pm and were able to hustle over to the visitor center (it’s down the road from the dock). we were able to explore the channel islands visitor center a bit and make purchases just before closing. however, because the ferry stops for animal sightings (yay!), your ride could last up to two hours and you could miss open hours altogether.

island packers ferry ride to channel islands

ferry boat to channel islands national park

view from the channel islands ferry

board the morning ferry to santa cruz island! since we visited in winter, there was only one ferry to any of the the islands the entire day - and it was to santa cruz. during busier seasons there will likely be more options. i’d absolutely recommend taking the earliest ferry possible, though.

the ride to santa cruz island is about an hour, but if you’re lucky it will take longer because the ferry stops for animal sightings. we were fortunate to have a couple grey whale sightings. our ride to santa cruz island took about 75 minutes.

note: if you get sea sick (i do!), sit outside at the back of the boat. i am very prone to motion sickness, and i did great sitting back here and not moving. you’re also closest to the bathrooms, should the need arise.

hiking channel islands: interpretive hike to cavern point

trail through green hills on santa cruz island channel islands national park

cavern point trail on santa cruz island

after we disembarked, we took the obligatory photos at the national park sign (there are actually two on island! keep reading to discover where the second is). we had a few minutes to use the restroom and collect ourselves before a guided interpretive hike with a channel islands naturalist. our guide, bart, has been visiting the islands for 15 years and was able to share some of the significant changes (good ones!) he’s witnessed over that time.

the interpretive hiking trail was the cavern point loop. during our leisurely (though uphill!) walk we learned about many of the over 150 channel islands endemic species, as well as the ranching history of santa cruz island. we hiked with the group to cavern point and then split off to do another hike on our own.

best hikes channel islands: potato harbor at santa cruz island

view potato harbor at santa cruz island of channel islands national park

potato harbor at santa cruz island

we ate our sandwiches while making our way from cavern point to the potato harbor trail on santa cruz island. potato harbor is a five mile hike that takes you along the coastline, through stunning grasslands to an overlook above a beautiful cove. we were pretty enchanted with the whole hike. it’s relatively flat and brings near-constant sweeping views. we saw lots of evidence of the endemic island fox along the way, as well as many of the island’s endemic plant species. we took a snack break at the end point and took in all the beautiful views before heading back toward the boat launch. we’d definitely rate this as one of the best hikes on santa cruz island and one of the best hikes of channel islands, overall!

santa cruz island visitor center

we had a bit of time left after our hikes, so we went to explore the on-island visitor center. again, this visitor center isn’t the same as the typical national park visitor center with souvenirs, books, a ranger desk, etc. there was no ranger inside, at all, and nothing to purchase. it is more of a museum that highlights the chumash, the indigenous people of the islands, the ranching history, and the conservation efforts of various species. we especially loved learning about the chumash and the island fox.

santa cruz island beach play

finally, we headed to the beach to play a bit on shore. there’s actually another channel islands national park sign right on the beach! we saw lots of birds, a sea urchin, and a few playful sea lions! it was the perfect way to spend our last minutes at channel islands natural park.

channel islands ferry back to mainland

it’s time to depart santa cruz island! there was only one ferry to the island and one ferry back. our ride back to mainland was at 3:30pm. if you miss the boat, you have no option but to stay overnight. from what was repeated multiple times, this has happened before. however, they did have a list of expected passengers and waited until everyone on the list was on board. our return ferry was faster as we didn’t have any animal sightings (other than the silly sea lions while we were boarding). it ended up taking just about an hour to get back.

since we had enough time, we went straight to the channel islands visitor center in ventura after disembarking! also, for those doing the junior ranger program - we got our book from island packers in the morning and our channel islands naturalist had been deputized to give badges. so, on our ferry ride back he reviewed kiddo’s book, swore him in and presented his pin.

it was a long but thrilling day at channel islands national park! but, we had one more day to explore the area, so we went whale watching!

channel islands day 2: island packers whale watching

two dolphins swimming in santa barbara channel near channel islands national park

two dolphins in santa barbara channel

since we opted out of kayaking the channel islands, we decided to spend another day doing a whale watching tour. one of the benefits of visiting in winter is you can catch the grey whale migration! we used island packers again and did a half day excursion that took us out to anacapa island and back. we had seen grey whales the day prior, but on our tour we actually saw humpback whales! the crew said they hadn’t seen humpbacks a long time and we saw quite a few, so it was a big day! we also saw hundreds and hundreds of dolphins. they absolutely love surrounding the boat, so we got some pretty up close interaction with them which was a thrill! we really enjoyed our tour and highly recommend it!

important tip: be sure to bring sunscreen! even on a winter day, the water reflects the sun quite strongly. this is our favorite sunscreen that we bring on all our adventures. we love the mousse for easy application, but you can also get the lotion or the spray.

visiting channel islands national park was such an incredible adventure. we are so grateful we were able to make it happen and are hoping to return soon to try out camping on channel islands.

i hope this itinerary for one day at channel islands national park’s santa cruz island helps you plan your own adventure. let me know if you’ve visited and what else you’d add to this list! have a great time and go out wild at channel islands national park!

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favorite hidden gems in joshua tree national park

less frequented spots in our favorite national park

kiddo runs through the boulders at joshua tree national park at sunset

this post contains affiliate links. purchasing from these links will not affect your purchase. however, i may receive a small amount of compensation for any purchases may through these links.

joshua tree is truly my favorite place on earth. no matter how many times we go, i always look forward to the next visit. and, after living close by for nearly three years and then returning one to two times a year since then, we’ve been to joshua tree national park at least two dozen times. while i can’t say we’ve seen every nook and cranny, we’ve seen an awful lot. we’ve been to all of the popular spots - some many times - and they are absolutely worth visiting! but now when we visit joshua tree, we try to find less frequented spots like longer hikes or places on the edge of the park’s borders.

indigenous peoples

the land presently referred to as joshua tree national park is the traditional homeland of many tribal peoples, including the cahuilla, serrano, mojave, and chemehuevi. per an enthographic study performed by the park, “the Chemehuevis had something that resembled a moiety system associated with the ownership of land in demonstrated in two hereditary songs, the Mountain Sheep Song and the Deer Song, each of which described trips through the mountains and valleys along the colorado river. those who had the right to sing the song had the right to hunt in the area and in that sense owned it. the songs were inherited patrilineally, but after the euro-americans came a man might inherit his song from his mother's father if his father were a non-Indian and thereby had no song, and, therefore, presumably no right to use the economic assets thereof.

groups of Chemehuevis had a right to hunt in a Mountain Sheep area only if a man who was an owner of the Mountain Sheep Song was part of the group. the same was true of the Deer Song. the Mountain Sheep Song covered an area west of the colorado river, and the Deer Song, east of the river. the Salt Song was associated with the Deer Song, and was often owned by those who owned the Deer Song, but it involved both sides of the river. each song had subdivisions, and a subgroup might own only a subdivision of a song, and a specific version of it… only a person who owned a song could sing it ritually, but others could sing it in non-ritual contexts.”

descendants of the chemehuevi, the twenty nine palms band of mission indians, settled at the oasis of mara, a sacred site near twenty nine palms. the oasis of mara can be visited by guests to joshua tree national park. be sure to go to the cultural center to learn more about this history, the ongoing importance of the site, the original stewards of the land, and the continued role of their descendants.

what you’ll need to visit joshua tree

joshua tree is, of course, a desert. water and sun protection are of the utmost importance, no matter the season. a few things we alway bring:

sunscreen: this one is our favorite. it’s spa 50 and we like the mousse because it’s easy to apply, but you can also get the lotion or the mist.

water bottles: kiddo uses this camelpak on all our hikes. my current favorite water bottle is this one from wondery.

other sun protection: we recently purchased this buff for kiddo as a multi-use item. it protects his neck from sun but can also be worn in a myriad of ways, based on need. we most often use it as a headband! i wear a wide brim hat that i purchased from a shop years ago, but similar styles can be found here and here.

good shoes: the desert is fully of prickly things. i highly recommend sturdy boots (and not hiking sandals). kiddo currently wears these hiking boots. i have high arches and am always alternating between boots. my two favorite pairs these days are these and these.

a trip to joshua tree national park is truly an adventure, and you’re sure to find something special no matter what. these are some of our favorite hidden gems in joshua tree national park, along with a couple of the hot spots that are worth returning to again and again.

favorite hidden gems in joshua tree national park

the view from lucky boy vista at sunset

lucky boy loop

we hiked this 3.3-mile loop just before golden hour so we could get to lucky boy vista at sunset. we ate our trail dinner while watching the sunset over the vista point, and then raced back down, getting to the car just as the sky turned dark. and then it was just us and the stars. it’s one of our favorite memories in the park. if you’re traveling park boulevard, the turn off for this hike is between ryan mountain and jumbo rocks, so it’s in an area you are likely to travel at some point during your visit. if you bring binoculars, you can spot skull rock from the vista.

view of mount san gorgonio from the hi-view ridge

hi-view trail

located near the black rock campground, the trailhead to the 1.4 mile hi-view loop is down a bumpy dirt road through joshua trees. the trail climbs up a ridge to stunning views of mount san gorgonio. we did this one on a christmas morning and the ridge was extremely windy. but the views of the snowy mountains were well worth it! if you come in winter, be sure to pack layers. you’ll be grateful for it!

wildflower super bloom at the bajada nature trail

bajada nature trail

if you’re into desert flora, this is the stop for you! though not really hidden, this 0.3 mile bajada nature trail is at the cottonwood entrance of the park, so much less visited than other areas. the trail is full of interpretive signs about the diverse plantlife in the colorado desert section of the park. it’s also here where you’re much more likely to see wildflowers. were were fortunate enough to live in the area during the last major wildflower superbloom and the bajada nature trail was covered in lupine, chia, and more. it was a spectacular site to behold!

ryan ranch

this 1.1 mile out and back trail is a good one for kiddos who love to explore. along the trail there are great rocks for climbing, but it’s the historic adobe - or, ryan ranch - that’s the big reward. built in 1896, it’s fun to imagine what the 6-room adobe once looked like. and it’s a great spot for photos! you’ll also find a lot more historic remnants scattered through the area. and did i mention scrambling opportunities?

view of a snow dusted mount san gorgonio from the peak of panorama loop

panorama loop

this was our most recent christmas hike and it’s a workout with a reward! after a long, sandy trudge, followed by a steep climb, the views of both mount san gorgonio and the san jacintos are a real treat. the panorama loop is a 6.6 mile lollipop and is located near the black rock campground. if you are up for it, you could do both panorama and hi-view on the same day as the trailheads are quite close to one another - though not as a single, connected hike.

kiddo looking down from atop eureka peak

eureka peak

this peak is mostly traversed via a rigorous 10-mile hike, but it can be driven to, as well! the road is certainly off the beaten path - a very bumpy, windy dirt road that will take you through the most dense stands of joshua trees i’ve ever seen. honestly, the density of the joshua trees alone is worth this trek. but, the views from eureka peak are also pretty darn spectacular. be sure to download the map in advance for this one. it’s quite easy to get turned around and there’s no signage to ensure you’re headed the right direction.

maze loop

this 4.9 mile loop takes you through canyons and high rock walls that make it feel like you’re inside a maze of boulders. it’s a bit of a wonderland, and you’ll definitely want to make sure you download the map in advance. there are several areas where the trail seems to disappear, and it’s easy to wander off track. the maze loop trail is mostly flat but there are some rocky sections, as well as some very sandy sections.

child hiking at joshua tree national park

kiddo hiking the mastodon peak loop in joshua tree

mastodon peak

mastodon peak definitely isn’t a secret, but it’s another one that’s over in the cottonwood section of the park and less visited than say… skull rock. but if you are in the area, it’s definitely the one to do! after recently camping in joshua tree at the cottonwood campground, this is actually our new favorite joshua tree hike! at just over 2.5 miles, this loop also includes an additional short scramble up to the peak. if you’re lucky, you may get to see salton sea from the summit! there’s also mastodon mine with some interpretive information about the history of mining in joshua tree. this hike does include some stairs, as well as some rocky sections with loose gravel.

favorite hot spots in joshua tree national park

the chollas at sunset

cholla cactus garden

the cholla garden is my top spot. there’s nowhere else i’d rather be. i call the teddy bear cholla my best friends and jokingly send my dear (human) friend a photo of me with my “friends” every time i visit. (i even have a cholla on my porch!) at the cholla garden there is a short boardwalk trail that wends it’s way through hundreds of these pokey wonders. this absolute gem is located in the colorado desert portion of the park which means no joshua trees, but so. many. cholla. plus smoke trees! it’s definitely a different ecosystem and worth traveling to. and while you’re down there, continue on to the cottonwood area of the park to check out the bajada nature trail and mastodon peak!

skull rock nature trail

skull rock is definitely one of the most popular spots in the park. most people park on the side of the road to take a quick picture with the skull, but only some realize there is a full 1.7 mile loop that brings different views. we first did this trail while camping at jumbo rocks and hardly recognized we were at skull rock until we were literally right on top of it. if you’re staying at the campsite this is a must-do!

arch rock

another popular spot, arch rock trail is fun because you’re able to see a lot of interesting geologic features. the arch itself is not particularly large - and definitely requires scrambling up sharp boulders - but the entire 1.2 mile lollipop loop brings a feast for the eyes. the trail head can be accessed from the twin tanks parking lot.

i’d love to know what your must-see spots are at joshua tree - especially the hidden gems! if we haven’t seen it already, we’re sure to check it out on our next visit! in the meantime, i hope this list gives you some ideas for ways to explore this national wonder beyond the amazing, well-known (and well-loved) hot spots. go out wild and enjoy some hidden gems at joshua tree national park!

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